When the ancient sites have worn you out, the tram down to the Riviera for a swim, a seaside cocktail and a polished mall-and-cafe scene in Glyfada is a real change of pace and very local-summer. The catch: the best beaches are pay-to-enter beach clubs (€10–30 a sunbed), the free stretches are average, and it's a tram or taxi ride out from the centre.