With kids, Mercato Centrale (San Lorenzo Market Hall) works.
Two markets stacked in one hall, and the difference is everything. Upstairs is a sleek, late-opening food court built for tourists and groups who can't agree on one cuisine — fine, busy, a bit sanitized. Downstairs is the real thing: head straight for Nerbone, the lampredotto-and-bollito counter that's been working that corner since 1872, where Florentines line up at noon for a tripe panino bagnato dipped in the cooking broth. Order at the till first, then take your slip to the counter; eat standing or grab one of the few stools. That ground-floor ritual is the whole reason to come.