Solo, Scuola del Cuoio (Leather School) works.
Founded post-war to teach orphans a trade, it lets you watch craftsmen gilding and stitching, and buy directly with confidence in the quality — the honest answer to the leather-market roulette. The catch: prices are real-artisan high, not market-haggle low, and it's a small space that's more atelier than attraction. Worth it precisely for those who want the real thing.