For history & culture, National Museum of Ancient Art (MNAA) delivers.
The serious art destination: the country's national treasures, including Bosch's Temptation of St Anthony and the Nuno Gonçalves panels, with a quiet garden café over the Tagus. The honest catch: it's a big classical museum away from the tourist trail, and casual visitors chasing tiles and viewpoints will find it heavy going. Essential for art lovers, skippable otherwise.