Solo, Monastery of São Vicente de Fora works.
A quietly impressive stop most visitors miss — endless 18th-century tiled cloisters, a roof terrace with a sweeping Alfama view, and the tombs of nearly every Braganza monarch. The catch: it's a paid ticket for what reads as 'another church' to the unhurried, and it's a climb up beyond the castle. A strong pick for tile and history lovers.