Even on a tight schedule, Plaza Mayor earns the hours.
Allow 20–40 minutes.
A vast, enclosed Habsburg square that flips character by the hour: dead-touristy at midday under the café awnings, then genuinely atmospheric at night when the arcades empty and the lamplight catches the Casa de la Panadería frescoes. Sunday mornings it hosts a long-running stamp-and-coin market under the arches — collectors hunched over tables, the one time locals reliably come.