Even on a tight schedule, Lavapiés earns the hours.
Allow 1.5–3 hours.
The city's most diverse barrio: Indian and Senegalese restaurants, radical bookshops, street murals and old corralas, plus the Reina Sofía and a working market on its edges. The catch is it's rough around the edges, can feel edgy after dark, and has more texture than conventional 'sights'.