Bright, casual, all small plates and raw shellfish with a cult natural-wine list. Walk-in only energy that's fun if you're flexible and frustrating if you're on a clock.
No-reservations seafood small-plates sibling of Septime from Bertrand Grébaut at 80 rue de Charonne, 75011; daily catch from St-Jean-de-Luz, Concarneau and l'Île d'Yeu sets the menu · guide.michelin.com
Walk-in only — write your name on the chalkboard; peak waits run 45–75 min, so arrive before 7pm or after 10pm · parisbymouth.com