Solo, it depends on the day.
Hushed, tapestried jewel-box rooms and unwavering classical technique at the very top end. Formal, expensive, and old-school to the bone — sublime if that's what you want, stiff if it isn't. A note for 2026: Pacaud, who defined the place, stepped away in 2025, the house changed hands, and Michelin pulled its third star — so it's a kitchen finding its new footing, not the untouchable institution of a few years ago.