At the very tip of Dorsoduro where the Grand and Giudecca canals meet, the old customs house is a sleek Tadao Ando-restored space showing François Pinault's contemporary collection — bold, ambitious shows in a triangular building with knockout water views from its prow. The catch: it's strongly contemporary (challenging for traditionalists), shows rotate so it can be hit-or-miss, and it pairs with Palazzo Grassi on a separate ticket.